Overlanding from Namibia to Angola was a complete wild card. All we actually knew was that this southern African nation was a Portuguese colony for ~400 years and was embroiled in a decades-long civil struggle till 2002. We figured we’d get to the border city of Rundu, Namibia, collect some native intel for this Angola journey, and issues to do within the neighboring city of Calai…however we couldn’t discover anybody who had been over the border! Google Maps made it seem to be you needed to drive eight hours out of the way in which to cross the river, and Reserving.com pulled up zero outcomes for resorts…this solely made us much more curious and desperate to discover Southern Angola!
Namibia-Angola Border Crossing at Calai
Crossing the footbridge over the Okavango River, we mentioned goodbye to Namibia and ola to Angola. The immigration officer solely spoke Portuguese, so in our greatest Portuñol pidgin, we defined our four-day Angola journey was for “ferias” (vacation functions) and heard that candy sound of a stamp hitting our passport. We could have been “in” however with no concept what we had been stepping into.
A fleet of moto taxis waved us over, so with no vehicles in sight, Mike and I had no alternative however to every saddle up with a stranger and hope we had been heading to the identical place. Vrrrooom, we zipped via the sandy roads and into central Calai, two streets of retailers, an out of doors market, a Portuguese bar…and one guesthouse!
The place to Keep in Calai
We opened the tall gate to the unassuming Tchingwali Guesthouse, and we had been met with a tropical backyard, a full restaurant, and nice rooms with AC and en-suite baths for $16. Who knew?! As vegans who don’t communicate Portuguese, it was a bit laborious to determine the very best plant-based possibility, however an hour and a half later (Africa time is actual and it’s even slower in Angola lol), a yummy lunch arrived.
Maize porridge is the premise of most meals in Southern Africa and takes many names (pap, ugali, funge, and so forth) and is commonly ready so it’s dense sufficient to select up and scoop the accompanying veg and meat. In Angola, it’s known as funge, and we loved ours with sides of untamed spinach, peanuts, and slow-cooked beans. We washed it down with a pair of Cuca beers, and ordered one other spherical simply because we beloved the native customized of cerveja and a bottle opener delivered by wicker basket.
Authorities Permission to Discover
We knew Calai wasn’t a vacationer vacation spot, however with the famed Okavango River, we figured there could be some water adventures in our future. We requested our visitor home the place we might organize a ship journey, they usually mentioned, “Nowhere that we all know of, perhaps ask by the dock.” They unnoticed the half that the “dock” was truly a naval base, they usually weren’t so pleasant to unannounced guests.
After assembly with a number of officers and receiving an extended line of questioning (“Are you making an attempt to cross to Namibia? Why do need to canoe in the event you aren’t fishing? Are you a very good swimmer? You understand the river is stuffed with crocodiles, proper?” ), they warmed as much as our concept of a dugout canoe journey with a neighborhood fisherman…they usually even wished a selfie to commemorate our journey!
Dugout Canoeing the Okavango River
Donning the hearth division’s life vests, we joined Segunda for his first foray into river-guiding. He’d by no means had passengers in his canoe, however he dressed up for the event and confirmed us his favourite eddies, islands, and hippo hiding spots. We tipped him handsomely and shared (the very best!) malasada donuts to have a good time what may simply turn out to be a brand new chapter in his waterman profession. To assist make this occur, we launched him to the Tchingwali Guesthouse crew so they might ship future friends on an Okavango canoe expedition with the beautiful Segunda!
Highway Tripping Southern Angola
Now to rearrange a highway journey to discover extra of Angola! There have been solely a handful of non-governmental vehicles on the town, and the very best truck occurred to be parked at our guesthouse. We went out on a limb and requested the vehicle-owner, Peter, if he’d be prepared to point out us across the Southern Angola countryside. This surprising request was met with an excellent greater provide to hitch him the next day on his 120km journey to Dirico with a cease to satisfy one of many queens of the Cuando-Cubango province.
No crazier than another concept this journey, we thought, “Heck, why not?!” Off we went on a wild experience down the deep sand roads, reducing via the thick brush. When the bushes opened up, we’d catch glimpses of the mighty Okavango River, the occasional grouping of mud & thatch huts, and fields of pearl millet for a scenic drive.
Visiting with the Queen of Mutango
To study concerning the native life and agriculture, there was no higher individual to satisfy than Queen Katrina! She graciously confirmed us round her village and farm, and find out how to shuck and chew sugarcane just like the boss she is! Our Angola schooling continued within the automotive as I peppered Peter with questions. (I might communicate to him in Spanish and he’d reply in Portuguese, and amazingly, we understood one another sufficient for some deep conversations). Through the Angolan Civil Battle, his dad was a basic for the Insurgent Social gathering, which was primarily based on this province of Cuando-Cubango.
This space was teeming with wildlife, from elephants to lions to giraffes to leopards, however the preventing drove most of them south to the protection of Namibia. Numerous landmines nonetheless litter the realm, and he lamented, Angola nonetheless hasn’t fairly gotten on its toes, regardless that the struggle led to 2002. Corruption is rife and infrastructure is severely missing, however you’ll be able to’t break the spirit of the Angolan individuals!
Dirico: The place the Rivers Meet
After a four-hour experience down a one-lane sand highway, taking numerous hits from overgrown bushes and yielding to cows, we arrived within the city of Dirico. Atop a hill the place the Cuito River meets the Cubango River, it’s a beautiful location and a cheery place. The city sq. is anchored by its namesake signal and backyard with a cute elephant and hippo statue. Adults and children alike had been taking part in soccer, and we might hear a church choir training.
We popped right into a marketplace for some meals and drinks (the primary store we’d seen all day), and a bunch of teenage women swept me up like a long-lost buddy. “Selfie, selfie,” they squealed. What began as a photograph op was an impromptu dance session and laughing match.
Southern Angola Journey…SOOO price it!
Earlier than dealing with the darkish and sandy highway again to Calai, we took a second to benefit from the sundown on the bridge over the Cuanavale River. Fishermen hugged the railing and, with only a stick and a line, they had been pulling out tiger fish of epic proportions. Children had been cheering with every catch; dinner was served. Peter, Mike, and I cracked our N’gola cervejas, raised our heat beers over the shimmering pink waters, and toasted an unforgettable journey and new friendship.
Angola Journey Ideas
Rundu-Calai Border Crossing: From Rundu, it’s a 15-minute cab experience to this distant border publish. You’ll course of your passport on the Namibia aspect, then stroll throughout a floating bridge to complete your paperwork in Calai. No visa or entry charge is required.
- Time Change: Be aware there’s a one-hour time distinction between Angola and Namibia. In Namibia, borders are open 9am-6pm, and in Angola, the hours are 8am-5pm.
- Language: Portuguese is the official language of Angola, with 47 acknowledged native languages. There may be restricted English in Southern Angola, however between that and/or Spanish, individuals can typically perceive you in the event you communicate slowly. Since I solely know a handful of phrases in Portuguese, I spoke Spanish with a Portuguese inflection, and it labored fairly effectively…particularly when mixed with an offline model of Google Translate’s Portuguese language dictionary! Make sure to obtain earlier than you go!
- Cash: The Angolan Kwanza (Kz) is the nationwide forex and exchanges at 917 Kz to $1 USD. In Calai and Dirico, the Namibian greenback is extensively accepted, so we by no means wanted to alternate cash. Southern Angola is extremely reasonably priced, with our resort operating us $15 an evening, a meal $2, and a beer $1.
- Connectivity: WiFi and cell reception are laborious to return by in Southern Angola. Our T-Cell Pink Limitless/worldwide plan didn’t work, however when you’ve got a Namibian SIM card, it ought to decide up sign from Calai. Greatest to obtain maps, forex conversions, and the Portuguese dictionary earlier than you go.
- Transportation: Most individuals who come to Southern Angola from Namibia arrive by 4×4 overland autos for tenting adventures. This might undoubtedly be enjoyable and a better alternative, however we’re glad to report {that a} journey to Calai might be carried out on foot, by moto-taxi, and by making mates with vehicles, lol.
We launched into this Angola journey with zero expectation (and somewhat little bit of jitters) and had been met with the pure kindness and unbridled journey…precisely what we dream of in journey! We hope you too, can take the highway much less traveled to Southern Angola.
